MEAN Form Diagram

This is a MEAN Form for a basic high heel pump, from a symmetrical Last:

This is a Diagram of the making of the above High Heel Pump MEAN Form:

  1. Red lines are the medial side of the taped Last.
  2. Blue lines are the lateral side of the taped Last.
  3. This is the vamp axis point.  In pattern making, the MEAN form is only one half of the shoe and therefore the center of the vamp must be a straight line in order to fold the MEAN form over to convert the half to a whole.  It is OK that the axis point is underneath the vamp lines at the toe for there is enough stretch in leather to compensate for the additional portion needed.  If the axis was above the lines there would be excess material, resulting in potential wrinkles and/or excess waste.
  4. New heel curve to use for the Upper pattern.
  5. New Liner heel curve to use for the Liner pattern.  These lines come in more due to the orange peel effect and the natural stretch of leather.  The top two thirds is a straight line as this pattern piece does not have a back seam.  To make the pattern piece, you would fold a piece of cardstock and make 2 symmetrical sides as one piece.
  6. The seam line for the joining of the two Liner pieces.  The original blue line had to be greatly modified because it was outside of the axis line and therefore the pattern would overlap in those areas that the seam was outside of the axis line.
  7. The medial seam line for the Upper.  This line is inside the axis line to ensure the long pattern piece does not have any overlap with the shorter pattern piece.
  8. The final design line for the shoe.
  9. The lasting allowance line for the lateral side.
  10. The lasting allowance line for the medial side.
  11. Feather edge of the Last.  This is where the side edges of the Last meet the sole edge of the Last.

Tags: ,

Leave a Reply